Editor’s note: This first installment of “The Local Plate” is adapted from a series of fish and chips reviews Worcester resident Mike Eressy originally shared online earlier this year. The Worcester Guardian invited Eressy to continue contributing future installments as part of an ongoing local food feature series.
What began as a simple Lenten craving turned into a full-scale Worcester fish and chips tour — complete with rankings, heated tartar sauce debates and at least one failed attempt to beat the dinner rush at Pinecroft Dairy and Restaurant.
For Worcester resident and public school teacher Mike Eressy, the mission started earlier this year with a post asking where to find the city’s best fish fry. Week by week, he documented his stops through Worcester-area food groups on Facebook, reviewing neighborhood staples and gathering recommendations from hundreds of commenters eager to defend their favorite local spots.
Somewhere along the way, the posts became less about fish alone and more about the places Worcester residents return to again and again— the restaurants tied to family traditions, Friday routines and memories that outlast the meals themselves.
“This mission was sparked by the closing of Suney’s Pub, a local landmark my late mother first introduced me to,” Eressy said. “Losing Suney’s made me realize how much of our personal and collective history is tied to the tables where we eat.”
Over several Fridays, Eressy worked his way through stops including Peppercorn’s Grille & Tavern, Steve’s Pizza, Herbie’s, Scruffy Murphy’s and Pinecroft, ranking everything from fries and coleslaw to portion sizes and overall value.
At Peppercorn’s, he praised the “phenomenal” fish and standout tartar sauce, though he noted the higher price point and smaller fry portion. Steve’s Pizza earned high marks for generous servings and what became his favorite coleslaw of the tour.
Herbie’s delivered what Eressy called his favorite fish overall, with a crisp batter that “complimented [sic] the fish well and held it together” without overwhelming it.
At Scruffy Murphy’s, he found one of the better tartar sauces of the trip — “tangy without it being too pickle forward” — though he admitted he wasn’t fully sold on the fish itself.
Then there was Pinecroft.
After one failed attempt ended with a one-hour wait and two restless young children in tow, Eressy eventually made it through the doors on a later Friday visit. The return trip paid off.
“For 14.99 you get the well portioned meal pictured below,” he wrote in his review. “The fish was nice and crisp without being overdone and the fries were the best I’ve had thus far.”
The restaurant ultimately claimed Eressy’s top overall ranking, along with his favorite fries and best value title.
His toughest critic may have been closer to home, however. During the Pinecroft stop, Eressy’s 2-year-old daughter sampled the grilled cheese and ice cream before delivering her official assessment: “Yummy in my tummy.”
By the end of the series, Eressy had also awarded category winners for tartar sauce, coleslaw, fries, fish quality and overall value. Several Worcester-area favorites — including Wonder Bar and Saloon No. 6 — remain on his growing list for future visits.
And yes, there will be another food quest (we’re told breakfast sandwiches are on tap).
“I am always looking for new recommendations,” Eressy said. “Please share your favorite dishes or the hidden gems you think I should visit next.”
The final rankings:
Best overall: Pinecroft
Best fish: Herbie’s
Best tartar sauce: Peppercorn’s
Best coleslaw: Steve’s Pizza
Best fries: Pinecroft
Best bang for your buck: Pinecroft
Mike Eressy is a Worcester native, contributor to The Worcester Guardian and an educator teaching social studies at South High by day and credit recovery at Worcester Tech at night. His food series explores local favorites and hidden gems across the city, with a focus on the stories and traditions behind them. When he’s not in the classroom or tracking down his next great meal, he’s spending time with his family or adding to his collections of political buttons and Pokémon. He can be reached at meressy@gmail.com
